Oh Brother, Where Am I ?

Leftovers

2008-04-01T13:37:00.006-05:00

A few leftover pictures

The Almirante Brown VII, our transportation down the Rio Madeira and up the Rio Amazonas to Manaus

This is what the "2nd" level looked like when we first arrived, spacious and clean

By departure time, there wasn't much room for anything or anyone else

The monument in the Plaza in front of the Manaus Opera House

The Teatro Amazonas or Manaus Opera Huose
A final Brasilian breakfast

Manaus and beyond

2008-03-22T15:14:00.023-05:00

Our original trip plan was to ride the bikes all the way home through Central America and Mexico. After experiencing the border crossings on the road to South America we decided that we would would spare the costs and chaos on the return by flying ourselves and the bikes from Bogota to Miami instead of Panama.

Then while we were riding down the river to Manaus, and out of contact with the rest of the world, a border skirmish between Colombia and a couple of it's neighbors was playing itself out. Fellow riverboat passengers had divergent opinions about the wisdom of a couple of gringos going through Venezuela under the protection of Hugo Chavez. The expressions of our friends and families had become less diffuse. On the river, both Landon and I got the sense that the trip was over, and that it was time to go home.

So the day after arriving in Manaus, we went to the airport to see if we could arrange transportation to the States. We were soon told that we would have to use an agency, which brought to mind the troubles we had in Bogota. We were skeptical when we met Arnaldo, the administrative and financial officer of a major cargo company in Manaus. He is a fellow motorcycle enthusiast (pictured above with Landon), and it didn't take him too long get our respect and confidence. He ended up spending the better part of two days arranging for the transport of our selves and our motorcycles out of Brazil and negotiating our way through the practical and official labyrinths involved. We wouldn't have been able to do it without him and are utterly grateful to him on many levels.

The first evening he invited us to his home, and we went down to the marina, and he took us for a ride on his boat along the riverfront.

Then we went upstream to a remote restaurant along the banks in the jungle, where we were the only table being served. We had--what else--fish. It was so good. At one point Arnaldo asked the proprietors to turn off the generator so we could experience the darkness and silence of the jungle at night. The lights of Manaus were barely visible on the horizon. It was an unforgettable evening.

The following day (Thursday) the bikes were packed up and delivered to the airport. The next day (Friday) we flew to Miami, Florida.

Holy Week was beginning and Spring Break was in full force. If they weren't full, hotels near the airport were ten times the price of our average room in South America. But we found one near the cargo terminal that was across the street from a Burger King. Our first meal back in the US was a burger with real dill pickles and fries with lots of ketchup. On Palm Sunday we went to mass at St. Dominic's Parish down the street from our hotel.

It took the better part of Monday to get the bikes through customs and out of cargo. But when the batteries were reconnected, the tires aired up, the tanks filled with gas, the luggage reattached, we said "Let's go home", got on them and headed north on I-95.

On Tuesday, Landon's back tire lost a chunk of rubber ten miles past Lake City, Florida. There happened to be an Interstate Cycles billboard across the highway with a phone number. So we called. They had a tire, so we slowly made our way back to Lake City.

Thanks to Barry and the staff at Interstate Cycles, we were back on the road with a new tire in an hour. We still made it to Pensacola by sunset.

Wednesday, we drove west on I-10 into the rain. At Mobile, Landon headed north to visit family. I drove on west into the storm and got soaked to the bone. The rain let up in Louisiana, but the north wind was worse than Patagonia. The sun came out and it warmed up at the border with Texas. I made it through Houston only slightly scathed by the beginning of rush hour traffic. After six months, the 20,000 mile circle was closed when I pulled into my yard at 10 p.m. It was great to be home. Landon got home on Saturday. Sean will be spending the next month in Brazil before he returns.

It will take a few weeks to get everything cleaned up and things back to normal. It will take longer to figure out what the trip means to me.

Please forgive me a few of quick personal observations:

1. The United States is a nice country to live in, and I'll probably live out the rest of my days here. But it's not Argentina, or Colombia, or Chile. People actually talk with each other in public there; perfect strangers enjoy visiting with each other in places like Bogota, and Santiago, and Rio Mayo. I like that so much. After six months of living in the dynamic public life of Latin America, being on Interstate 10 was disquieting. No lively conversations at filling stations, people didn't even look at each other. No kids in the back seat of a passing car giving the thumbs up along the way. No rolled down windows and impromptu conversations at red lights. I didn't notice it so much before, but, in comparison, the public life of this country feels barren to me now. I wonder how we can make that better. (People on motorcycles in the US wave at each other, though. I really like that, and it seems like a good start.) Maybe it was just me moving west on I-10 at 78 miles per hour, so anxious to get home for Easter. I'm thinking that taking two weeks moving west on US Highway 90 might have provided a better vision of the warmth and vibrancy of my native land. Is it also possible that we as a people are too shy, too cautious, too lazy or too careful with each other in public?

2. Some preliminary advice to anyone considering a journey like ours comes from something Landon said in the first weeks, "When you are getting ready for a trip like this, don't take anything you aren't prepared to lose." I've thought a lot about that remark over the past months. On a journey like this, if you can't deal with losing it, don't take it: your stuff, your motorcycle, or your life. Maybe the best that "adventure" traveling can do is to help us learn how part with things--things we are going to eventually loose anyway. There is a freedom in that, especially when it is bathed in the mysteries of Holy Week. I still have so much to learn on this one.

3. I wish every citizen of our country could engage in lively conversations with our neighbors who live south of the Rio Grande. They know a lot about us, our higher education, our motorcycles and music, our retirement funds, our cities (especially New York and Miami), our entrepreneurial energy and basketball teams. They almost always asked about Hilary, and Barak Obama, and George Bush. I wish everyone could hear the questions about George Bush. When they found out I was an American, so many people wanted to know what I thought about him, and the war in Iraq. They talked about how difficult and expensive it is for them now to get a visa and enter our country. They never openly said so, but I got the impression that they have a lot of questions about the way we are conducting ourselves among the other nations of the world. We need lively conversations with our friends south of the Rio Grande. They have a lot to offer. So do we. And I think they like us.

4. And I am so grateful to have had the chance to travel through Latin America, to see it and to experience the utter hospitality of so many generous people. I look forward to keeping in touch with new friends made along the way. It was so great to see the Southern Cross, the wildlife and native plants, the mountains and streams, to taste the food, drink the wine, hear the music and look at some of the beautiful things our fellow Americans have made over the past 20,000 years. I'm thankful for David, Marcia, Irv, Charlene, and Shawn--dear loved ones who came to visit along the way, and for all my family and friends who have followed our travels and cared so much for us. I thank God for these good gifts. I'm thankful for a good motorcycle and the joy and freedom that two wheels can bring. For men in Latin America (maybe everywhere) having a motorcycle is an unblended celebration of pure masculinity. I'm grateful to be a man, and for the privilege of traveling with two good men like Landon and Sean.

A Riverboat to Manaus, Amazonia

2008-03-16T10:58:00.007-05:00

We arrived in Puerto Velho and almost immediately found a boat headed for Manaus. Loading the bikes, as always, was high adventure.
We ended up having to wait a couple days for the boat to actually take off, heavily laden with all manner of cargo, a couple hundred people and two dogs.
Because of all the gear, we had to get a cabin. It was small, the air conditioning was sketchy, the food was not very good, and it was hard to get around on the decks, which were full. Also, some people had a hard time keeping their hands off of the bikes. But words cannot describe what it was like to cruise down this river or what it felt like to cross the Amazon. There was also time to get to know some new friends making their way into all parts of the world. I'm looking forward to keeping in touch.

The scenery

Two little passengers
The maze of hammocks
and music.

We got started two days late. But because all of the rain made the river unusually high, the boat arrived at the floating docks of Manaus in two days instead of four. It all worked out just fine, and we found ourselves in one of the world's major ports, smack dab in the middle of the continent.

BR-364 The real `Road of Death`

2008-03-11T13:47:00.002-05:00

After visiting Iguasu Falls from the Brasilian side, we went and toured the Itaupu Dam. I´ll let you all google it to get the details, but this thing is BIG.

We headed north towards Dourados and Rhondonopolis through more soybean country. The soil here is really red, kinda like Mars.

The rains west of Rhondonopolis had slowed the soy harvest, but not the truck traffic on the BR-364. In a short stretch from Rhondonopolis to Cuiaba we must have passed 80 trucks in an hour. Throw in a drizzling rain and the trucks swerving to dodge 3 foot wide potholes on a two lane road, and you have an adrenaline filled day, or two.

The two lane BR-364 doesn´t do alot of meandering, it´s either uphill or downhill. The trucks might slow to 40 kph at the top of the hill, but they make up time by getting up to 140 kph on the way down the other side. Makes me wish I´d taken more physics classes, all this velocity and mass and oncoming traffic stuff.

San Ignacio

2008-02-29T15:43:00.006-06:00

Just north of Santa Ana is San Ignacio, an old Jesuit mission that has been partially restored. Above is the front of the church. Below are some shots of a few of the wonderful doors and windows.

The final picture is another view of the front of the church.

Santa Ana in the Misiones district of Argentina

2008-02-29T15:16:00.008-06:00

North of Posada on the way to Iquazu Falls, we stopped at two old Jesuit missions. The first was Santa Ana, which has been excavated, but not restored. The above is a view across what was the plaza.

The people lived in long rows of houses organized around the plaza. Here are the foundation stones of one.

To the right of the church was the cemetery. This is a grave without a door.

Here is a closeup of it´s contents. Reminds me a little bit of the Easter Gospel.

The creation wants this place back.

This is the final shot of Santa Ana, the church. Reminds me of some congregations I know in Texas.

Iguazu Falls from the Brazil side

2008-02-29T15:11:00.003-06:00

Earlier in the blog we posted pictures of the waterfalls from the Argentina side. Now that we have the $150 visa we have been able to cross over into Brazil and to see the falls from the more panoramic side. It cannot be captured by my little camera, but the pictures below are most of the parts of a truly wonderful sight.

Northward

2008-02-28T15:52:00.003-06:00

Leaving the Estancia el Refugio was tough, but the road was calling. The area was in need of rain, but the soybeans looked good.

I went to San Justo to meet up with Horacio, who took me to dinner with his brother and their wives.

The next day they treated me to an asado at their weekend house, or quincho

His son, Juan Martin, gave me a tour of the area, and showed me his best crop of soybeans. Yes, he is standing up.

Uncle Richard would be proud, 1/4 kilo of heaven

I went to Reconquista the next day and got to eat lunch with some of the Rotarians from the last time and one of their newer members.
After lunch, Octavio(l), toured me around and we went to Raul´s(r) wheat flour mill. I got a personal tour from the owner. It was quite interesting for me.

Raul even showed me the BMW Isetta 4 seater he is restoring.

Images of Buenos Aires

2008-02-23T07:05:00.008-06:00

My sister and brother-in-law, Marcia and Irv, and friend Shawn met me in Buenos Aires and these are some randomly arranged images of experiences we had in the city. The first was taken during the mass at the German Lutheran church.

Musicians at the San Telmo Sunday steet fair.

The San Telmo parish of the Church of Denmark before services. After the mass we went to the basement and enjoyed a beer and the hospitality of the members.

Soldiers marching down the stairs to guard the Isla Malvinas monument near San Martin Plaza.

Congress building

Two friends, Andres and Luis, at a Parrilla for lunch (mostly grilled meat) after church.

Shawn, Marcia and Irv at the apartment just before they left for the airport and home. I hated to see them go.

Some happy dogs.

The sculpture of a rose that opens and closes each day.

Iguazu Falls

2008-02-23T07:00:00.003-06:00

We took a quick flight to see Iguazu Falls in the north, where Argentina meets Brasil and Paraguay. Nothing really needs to be said about this wonderful, peacful place on our planet. They speak for themselves. I hope you enjoy the pictures below, but they fail to do them justice.

Back to the Country

2008-02-22T13:37:00.004-06:00

While Sean and Lou stayed in Buenos Aires, I felt my time would be better spent seeing more old friends from my other time in the Santa Fe province. Germa'n (Herman) and Celeste, who was knee high to a grasshopper the last time I saw her, treated me to a fish dinner at "Tha Quincho of Chiquito" a landmark in Santa Fe. We had 9 different kinds of fish, all tasted excellent!

I stopped in to see Eduardo and Graciella in their 10th floor apartment, overlooking Sants Fe

I returned to Galvez to spend some time with Nora and Enrique and their girls. Their daughter Sofy provided the model poses
Little sister Martina got in to the act

When I went from San Jeronimo Norte to Las Tunas I was about 100 yards from the asphalt when the bike went down in some really slimey mud. Luckily German, Andres and Carlos popped out of nowhere to help me get it back on solid ground. I gave them some money for ice cream as a tip.

I got in to Esperanza to the Rotary meeting to see Howard and Raul, who had host some of our group in 1991.

In Esperanza I stopped by to see Laura, Enrique and Nora's daughter, who is studying at the University there.

In her spare time she takes care of the family estancia near San Justo.
She offered me a place to stay.....
..... but I had to return the favor and help out with the cows.
To market they go, actually to the buyers feedlot now.

Iguazu Falls

2008-02-16T15:42:00.004-06:00

While Mom was here we took a side trip to Iguasu Falls, near the Paraguay, Brasil, Argentina border To get there, you have to got to the sleepy (and humid) little town of Puerto Iguasu

This picture really doesn't do it justice, it's actually one of a nine picture panorama. This place is huge

The highlight of the tour is the powerboat ride below the Falls(note the tilt of the boat)

The pilot wasn't shy about taking us right up into the mist and spray

Sometimes we got so close it was almost like swimming(notice all the wet heads)
Our pilot got (and deserved) several rounds of applause

Which Eva?

Mom Came to Town

2008-02-14T19:13:00.005-06:00

A few days after we got to Buenos Aires, my mother, Charlene, came for a visit

The Obelisc, a major landmark on the 9th of July avenue

We went to the La Boca neighborhood, where they start 'em young

We went to a museum or two....or three

A painting of Juan and Eva Peron, some like 'em, some don't

We saw a small amount of pomp and circumstance

We toured the famous Recoleta Cemetary, where they have the ornate.....
and the simple

There was one for me(if I grew a beard and brought my own N along)

We went to a Tango show that incuded some indigenous music
Our seats were right at the stage so we had a great view
I guess I'm a fast learner, because the next day I was "dancing in the streets"

A Blast from the Past

2008-02-12T20:33:00.002-06:00

Before I could leave Santa Fe, I had to stop by and say hello to Luis, who had invited some of us to his house in 1991. He had a nice homebuildiing materials store in town where he kept his office.

Then I headed south to Rosario, to meet up with Lou and try to find Rogellio and his family, who had been my host in Carlos Pellegrini.
He and his beautiful family invited me for lunch, and we had a great time.
Later, he took me to a Rotary meeting at the Rosario South Club....
and then gave me a guided tour of the city. Thanks Rogellio! This is the Monumento a la Bandera (Monument to the Flag) in Rosario at night.

When Lou and I left Rosario, we went to Lujan, to see the Basilica of Our Lady of Lujan, quite a sight.

We also went to Tigre, and checked out the waterfront.

Before I went to our place in Buenos Aires, I stopped and touched base with Eduardo and Graciella, who were the first people I met in Santa Fe in 1991, still just as nice and kind as they were then.

Making Connections

2008-02-08T18:45:00.000-06:00

After I left Carlos Pellegrini, I headed to Piamonte, another town we visited in 1991. The cheese factory had such a good product back then, I hoped to find a place to buy some and maybe take a few pictures, maybe spend thirty minutes total . The town is at the end of the pavement, so they don't get much through traffic. My prescence was soon noticed by the local police and I was asked to follow the offcer to the office so they could take my information. I explained what I was doing and they accepted my explanation, but they wouldn't let me leave without notifying some Rotarians of my prescence. Within 30 minutes Rico and Roberto were at the station asking me to lunch. I told them I didn't want to bother them, but they wouldn't take no for an answer. After lunch I was asked to do a radio interview and a TV interview for he local cable channel. Later on we went to Roberto's headquarters where he kindly let me look at his tractors and sprayers. Rico, me, Roberto and his son

Later we went to look at the soybean crop. After 5 hours of hospitality, I had to go.

I went through el Trebol and looked around, then on to San Vicente for the night. In the morning I got to meet with Guillermo Cuneo at the local combine and sprayer factory and got a tour of the plant, much like 17 years ago. He got me in touch with Romulo, in Angelica.

Romulo is the kind of guy that Rotary is all about. He was really busy, but he stopped what he was doing to offer lunch and good fellowship with his family. He got me a list of names and adresses for other people I was looking for. Thanks, Romulo!

I went back to San Vicente and talked to Oscar and his wife, and their daughter , Franni, who took the picture. I stayed with them in 1991 and Franni was a little kid then, now she's newly married with a house of her own.

I moved on to Galvez for the night, and was able to meet up with the Questa's, who treated me to some wonderful ice cream. The next morning I went to Santa Fe and looked in on Bernardo and Chiquita, who treated us like family when we were here the last time.

What can I say, they know how to make someone feel welcome.

They even invited me along to a family get together with about 25 relatives.

There I met Ricardo and Juan Pablo, twins who are motorcycle fanatics and enjoyed listening to me talk about my trip.

The next day I was treated to lunch with Diego and his mom and dad, Chiquito, and Diego's family.
Last time I was here there was a girl named Vanina, who reminded me of an angel. This time, Diego's little girl did it.

Short on Beans

2008-02-03T15:51:00.000-06:00

I was fortunate enough to visit the Santa Fe province in 1991, on a Group Study Exchange Program sponsored by Rotary International. Back then, the area was dominated by dairy farms and milk processing plants. Today it is one huge soybean field, from the asphalt to the horizon, with afew cornfields here and there. About 80% of the wheat fields have been planted with double crop beans, also.

Last time I was here, I remember saying that if I ever came back to Argentina, I would return to Carlos Pellegrini. These kids reminded me why.

I got to sneak a few shots of big brother convincing little brother it was time to open his piggy bank.

With a few pointers on technique......

...and a bigger rock....

the deed was done, and all came out to see how much was there.

Later that night, Miguel and his wife Chrisina, Alberto and his wife and Waldemar treated me to a wonderful meal and hospitality fit for a king, reminding why I wanted to return to this beautiful town.

More Pictures

2008-02-01T19:39:00.000-06:00

The penguins at Punta Tombo, they deserve more publicity

The Cathedral in Cordoba

The Sacred Heart Cathedral in Cordoba

The Museo Rocsen in Nono had quite the variety, it was like a garage after 70 years in the same house

Almost like it's waiting to be let out

Atleast I could find the first one on a map

Cordoba, Alta Gracia, Mina Clavero and Rosario

2008-01-29T16:53:00.000-06:00

It´s been a while since we´ve posted anything new in the blog. These pictures should catch you up a little bit on what has happened in the past couple of weeks. When we left Santa Rosa, we headed north to spend a few days in the wonderful university town of Cordoba. There we again met my friend David Lange, only this time it was close to the end of his time in South America. The above picture was taken on Sunday morning. Yes, it´s huge line of people waiting to get into the church for services.

Here´s a picture from the front of another Cordoba church. I wonder if St. Peter is aware of what it takes to keep him up there.

In this one David, Landon and I are having a little something to eat, and a little something to drink.

After David left for Buenos Aires, Landon and I loaded up the bikes and headed into sierra, stopping at the small town of Alta Gracia, boyhood home of Che Guevara. Here´s a shot of me standing in front of his famed motorcycle. They weren´t interesting in letting me sit on it for the photo opportunity.

Later we went over the mountains to the west of Cordoba on the dramatic road that leads to the resort town of Mina Clavero. A nearby museum seemed to include absolutely everything, including this shrunken head.

We set up our tents in a Mina Clavero campground with this beautiful view of the River Sauces and the sierra.

Landon left the next day to visit his friends in Santa Fe. I stayed behind and took a week of retreat in the campground, alternating times of solitude with extended conversations with other campers. I didn´t carry the camera much but did get this picture of two of my young neighbors on my bike and their dad. I really enjoyed Mina Clavero.

It was fun to meet up with Landon again in Rosario yesterday. The two main museums were closed this morning, but we did get the chance to visit the flag memorial which honors Argentina and the Organisation of American States. I like this picture of the fire in front of the tower overlooking the river.

It´s Mostly the People

2008-01-17T16:32:00.000-06:00

As Landon says, we had such a good time in Rio Mayo. About 20 miles before we got to town, a car was stalled along side the road, and we stopped to see if we could help. It was a couple and their little girl headed to Rio Mayo. They asked us if we could send a tow truck. We continued into town, stopped at the first store we saw, and had the pleasure of meeting these folks who owned the store. They were great. They helped arrange for a police truck to go get the family in the broken car. Then they showed us their new store next door, and invited us to the grand opening the next day, and to stay for the big celebration Landon wrote about. We decided to take them up on the offer and give ourselves a break-

These cherries reminded me of home in Nebraska. I picked a few and enjoyed them.

Same with these currants.

This is another picture of the owners on the day of their celebration and grand opening. We met a lot of local folks then.

Here´s a picture of their daughter and her friend. They liked our stories and made us laugh.

Then we ran into the couple whose car had stalled along the road. Their car was fixed, and they gave us mate cups. We had the pleasure of seeing them several times in the next few days. They were selling local handicrafts at the fairgrounds.

Landon showed pictures of the rodeo and other events at the fairgrounds. Here are some pictures from the closing parade.

I like this one of the queen and her gaucho

This little guy was watching the parade with us. If it had not have been for the couple and their little girl stranded alongside the road 20 miles from Rio Mayo, we would have driven right through town and missed it all.

Two days ago we went to Punta Tombo and saw the largest penguin colony in the world--over 300,000. Here are two maturing chicks who are very fond of each other.

Now we are in Santa Rosa. Does this qualify as wearing a helmet? We´ve seen several bikers riding around with their headgear on their arms.

The windscreen on my bike finally went too far. The right bracket broke several months ago and I had it welded in San Jose, Costa Rica. But in December it broke again in the Patagonian wind. I braced it with duct tape and a bent piece of re bar I found in the parking lot. Then last week the other bracket cracked, and I made another brace out of a stick and duct tape for the other side. It all got a little shaky yesterday when it finally broke too. I ran into Jorge, a welder, in the hardware store this morning and went to his shop this afternoon. They were so great. They were surprised that we had driven all the way from Texas and interested about where we had been. He and his assistant, Abel, helped me get the windscreen off the bike, weld the brackets and paint them, and get it back on the bike. Then they broke out the ice water and ice cream bars. When I asked them how much it was, they said nothing. Just send us a post card when you get home so we know you made it okay. This photo is of them. It´s mostly the people that make this trip so wonderful and make me happy and proud to be human.

Festival Nacional de la Esquila

2008-01-17T14:27:00.000-06:00

During our stay in Rio Mayo, we attended the National Festival of Sheep Shearing Competition. Quite suprising that a town of 3,000 people would host a National competition, pretty much in the middle of nowhere, but yes, they did. There was a pageant for reinita and gauchito, little queen and little gaucho.

Of course there was the shearing competition, judged both on time and quality.

Some not so willing participants

Later, the gauchos had the rodeo, gaucho style. No chutes here, half the fun was getting on the horse.

The time for the ride seemed to be about 15 seconds

It was hard to tell because not alot of riders made it. The ground wasn't what you would call soft, either. Between rides the crowd was entertained by singing comedians who would ad-lib songs about the gauchos and their hometowns.

Sometimes it was kinda tough to watch. At least the ambulances were always at the gate, ready to go.

On Saturday night there was an award ceremony with the selection of a new Queen and a dance. The Queen was selected at 3 am and I didn't have the energy to stay for the dance, so I have no idea how it turned out.

On Sunday morning the gauchos paraded through town in their finest, it was quite the parade.

The Last of the Ripio (gravel roads)

2008-01-10T17:02:00.000-06:00

Taking a break on the road this morning. Yes that´s snow.

You have to see the blue sky of Tierra del Fuego to believe it.

Here´s a little more blue: an iceberg from the glacier that Landon wrote about.

We left some marks along this stretch of road. Even at slow speeds, it is easy to get off track in these ruts of Ruta 40.

Landon giving thanks for the tarmac at the end of gravel.

This is sunset at Bajo Caracoles, where we got the last room in the hotel after a hard day. It had a heater and hot water. We were grateful.

Torres and Glaciers

2008-01-08T17:18:00.000-06:00

From Punta Arenas we moved north to Puerto Natales, the jumping off point for the Torres del Paine National Park. We spent the next night camping at the park. The view from the road

Morning rainbow over the campsite. I think to see the really spectacular stuff you need to spend 5 or 6 days hiking and camping your way around the Towers. We didn't have the time.

One of the bridges in the park.

After Torres we went to El Calafate, the base for people from all over the world who come to see the Perito Moreno Glacier. Truly a sight to behold
Yes, it is cold enough to justify all the clothes. Lou checking out the icebergs.

Something from Tierra del Fuego

2008-01-05T18:49:00.000-06:00

Tierra del Fuego is the island , just South of the continent, so there all all kinds of categories as to southernmost this and on the continent that, that sometimes it gets confusing . So everyone gets an opportunity to call their town or area "the most". After I paid seven US to get into the park, I had to wait for all the tourists to clear out so I could take the picture. You can see it if you click on the link at the right for Lone Star Cycle BMW. I wouldn't wait too long, they're liable to replace it with another exciting picture of the parts counter pretty soon.

The beaver dam in the Lapatia National Park

On the way to catch the ferry in Porvenir we found this German damsel in distress, luckily we had 15 liters of gas to help her and her friend get down the road. Sean doesn't know what he's missing

An old shot from the trip into Bariloche

Lou learns valve adjustment in the campground in Ushuaia. The 40 degree mornings made it feel like winter here, and made it tough to get out of the sleeping bag.

it happens..... just unload it , stand it up , reload it and 20 minutes later you're on your way

A Ferry Tale

2008-01-05T18:40:00.000-06:00

This one's not as interesting as the last one. The ferry to Punta Arenas runs once a day and we were fortunate that another rider told us the schedule so we didn't waste a day waiting on it. We arrived three hours early and the captain let us load early. Six other bikers showed up and they stuffed them all in first.

Loading the ferry

Full boat

Sky heading into Punta Arenas

Some dry docked fishing boats in Punta Arenas

Going to the Dogs

2008-01-05T18:04:00.000-06:00

Every now and then you catch dogs being dogs A guard dog on duty in Salta

The captain of the ferry to Punta Arenas

Dogs lounging in Puerto Natales

Happy New Year from Ushuaia

2008-01-02T14:09:00.000-06:00

The landscape of Tierra del Fuego

Landon at the Ushuaia city limits. Three months of traveling south brought us to the end of the world on New Year's Eve. His face says it all.

New Year's Eve rainbow at the campsite.

My friend David Lange who flew in on New Year's Day and is beginning his South American journey from here.

Well we're finished moving south. We drove on down to the tip of South America before the end of the year under the powder blue sky of Tierra del Fuego and found a great campground on the edge of Ushuaia with several dozen other motorcycle travelers. The road down was generally good, even the gravel was better than some pavement we've been on. We ran into a few places where the availability of gas became a problem, but thanks to Landon's extra gas supply, we managed. It's generally cool and windy here with occasional sprinkles.

Some great folks at the campground grilled up a carnivor's dream supper for the bikers. It was a great time of getting to know folks from all over the world. At midnight we went outside to welcome in the new year. There was still light in the western sky.

On New Year's Day I was happy to meet my friend David Lange at the airport. We had supper and have spent the past 24 hours catching up on things.

In calling the States this morning, I realized that we are not only far south of home, but also far east. One normally thinks of South America as being below North America, but hardly any of it is. If one looks at the map, nearly the entire continent is east of the East Coast. I'm wondering why it isn't East America and West America.

Tomorrow Landon and I start heading north along the east side of the Andes with another biker, a German friend we met at the border a couple of days ago.

New Year Blessings to all of you.

South to Rio Gallegos

2007-12-29T17:43:00.000-06:00

Landon and I have been moving south from Comodoro Rivadavia along the Atlantic coast. These shots were taken on a little side road along the ocean going into Puerto de Julian, where we spent last night. We had an easy drive to Rio Gallegos today. With the exception of a 7-10 miles of gravel, the road these past two days has been generally good. The weather has been mostly cloudy, windy and cool. When we get a few miles from the coast, the scenery resembles the northern high plains of North America. We are hoping to get to Ushuaia on New Year´s Eve.

I found myself staring at a map of South America last night. Two thoughts occupied my mind. The first was the realization of how far away from home we are. The second was how much at home I have felt. I followed our route, knowing that we were out in the open the whole way. When you drive the whole way, the road here still really feels like the same road that runs in front of your own house.

Christmas in Bariloche

2007-12-27T18:13:00.000-06:00

While working on that last blog in Villa la Angostura, I heard Landon pull his GS up in front of the Internet cafe. It was a sweet sound and great a great reunion. After exchanging a few stories we made our way out to the campsite, which was located on a rise with this great view of the eastern slope of the Andes.

It was in Villa la Angostura that I heard the sad news that Tiny Walters, my neighbor across the street and dad of my ¨little sister¨ Emily, had died in his sleep at home that morning. The news has soften the celebration of Christmas for me, and I feel helpless and sorry to be so far away. I´m also grateful for his many good friends and family. The funeral was yesterday.

The next day, Christmas Eve, we made the short trip down to San Carlos de Bariloche in the Lake District of Argentina, found a hotel and changed the oil in the bikes. Inasmuch as there are so many Germans in the area, I had hoped to go to a Lutheran church for Christmas Eve services. But no one was ever to found at the church down the street, and there were no indications of time(s) for the services. At 7:30 we abandoned hope and took the short walk down the hill to the Roman Catholic Cathedral in Bariloche for the 8:oo mass.

It was a good celebration of the birth of ¨Dios Niño¨. After the distribution, a small choir offered a lovely Spanish song rejoicing in the mystery of the night. There were at least 8 stanzas, and I still wanted more. That little carol alone would have been enough for me to make the drive south to Argentina.

Christmas Day was fresh and brilliant in the glorious morning light. We took off on Ruta 40 for Tierra del Fuego, leaving the lakes, streams and mountains and entering the wide plains of Argentina. Sean´s bike made a couple suspicious noises from the gearbox, but they stopped. We camped that evening beside a stream at Gobernador Costa and made spaghetti for supper.

Worried about the transmission, we waited along the highway the next morning and looked for a truck willing to take Sean´s GS the 200 miles down to the Atlantic coast. We even made a cardboard sign, but the Christmas holiday worked against us. There wasn´t much traffic at all, let alone truck traffic. The bike wasn´t making the noises anymore, so we gingerly made our way to Comodoro Rivadavia. The bike held out without complaint until the outskirts of town. We barely made it to a hotel. Unpleasant sounds from the gearbox and broken metal parts in the gear oil confirmed a bad bearing. With the holiday, we could find no one in this oil town able to work on the bike, and the parts and tools we carry simply wouldn´t be up to tearing apart a transmission.

Sean decided to ship his bike to Buenos Aires to get it repaired. This morning we found a truck leaving on Saturday and pushed the bike the 10-12 blocks to meet it. Sean will take a bus to be there when his bike arrives in Buenos Aires. We´re thankful he has friends in Buenos Aires to help him welcome in the new year.

Our reunion, the three of us moving down the road together, didn´t last long, but we look forward to all being in Buenos Aires in February. It will be hard to say goodbye tomorrow.

We will continue to move south and hope to be in Ushuaia on New Year´s Eve and meet my friend David Lange who arrives there from New Braunfels, Texas on New Year´s Day.

Merry Christmas

2007-12-23T12:26:00.000-06:00

Blessings for Christmas from Villa la Angostura, Argentina. I know the picture doesn´t look much like Christmas. It´s spring here, and there is not a Poinsettia to be found. It was a choice between these Retamas and the Lupines (top). Sean and I motored on over from Osorno, Chile to Villa la Angostura, Argentina this morning. After catching up on things internet, we will run out to the campground and find Landon. The plan is to celebrate Christmas down the road a bit in Bariloche, and then to take off for a New Year in Ushuaia, Tierra del Fuego.

Happy Holidays

2007-12-22T16:09:00.000-06:00

I must admit it's tough getting in the Christmas spirit when the thermometer reads 95 degrees and there aren't the usual Christmas songs on the radio, but here's a try.
I walked up to the Cross above Junin today and found some interesting sculptures

I must have slept through the sermon about the conquistadors at the Crucifiction

This one about the washing of the feet really interested me for some reason

Maybe it was the facial expressions

I just thought it was pretty good stuff.

Wherever you are, whatever you're doing, Have a Merry Christmas!

Onto Junin

2007-12-22T15:52:00.000-06:00

I made my way to Alumine´, where the tourist offie said there was good fishing here. Lake RuciChoroi, or something like that, 25 km's off the beaten path in the Lanin National Forest. The stream that feeds the lake

I did say it was off the beaten path

The only problem here was that the Mapuche Gauchos kept riding up and trying to sell homemade bread and wool gloves and hats. Kind of like spam on a computer, but you can't turn it off.

So I moved down to Junin de los Andes, closer to the Lake district The town of Junin de Los Andes, from the Cross above town

You can still see the holdouts

This beast was loaded with 14 Germans AND the kitchen sink, www.kondor
-tours.de, if you want to go along

A Short Trip to Chile

2007-12-21T19:02:00.000-06:00

While Landon went fishing in Argentina, Sean and I went over to the Andes into Chile. We spent the first night in San Felipe Los Andes. A mild earthquake woke us up. The locals seemed used to them. Then we headed for Viña del Mar. Here is a shot of Sean headed for the water.

We missed our turn when we were leaving Viña del Mar. A car pulled up alongside of us at the stop light, and the driver (Roberto) asked us where we wanted to go. I said Santiago. He said ¨Follow me¨. We did, and he took us through the maze of streets and highways to the capital city. He and is family brought us to a wonderful grill, where they bought us supper. They directed us to a great hotel downtown and invited us for lunch the next day at their home near Melipilla. We ended up having supper with them and spending the night in their guest house. It was a terrific experience, certainly a highlight of the trip for me. The above picture is of me relaxing with the afternoon sun in their garden.

Our hosts Roberto and Evelyn, and their two children Macarena and Fernando. They were wonderful.

Salto de Laja, east of Conception.

Vulcan Osorno at its best in the afternoon light.

We look forward to crossing back over the Andes into Argentina tomorrow and celebrating Christmas with Landon in San Carlos de Bariloche.

Some More Old Pictures from Northern Argentina

2007-12-21T18:59:00.000-06:00

This is a close up of the sundial at the Tropic. The sun is almost straight up.

The Salinas Grandes (salt flats) on route 40 south and west of Abra Pampa, Argentina.

Landon and Sean headed south to Cache on route 40

Two more shots headed south to San Juan on route 40

Some Old Pictures

2007-12-21T18:55:00.000-06:00

Here are some old pictures I found on the camera. This one is Landon getting on the ferry on the way to Conception, Bolivia.

This is a storm brewing over the mission in Conception.

The Feast of San Javier at the San Javier mission in Bolivia. The skies opened up just before the scheduled procession around the square.

But soon the rain stopped, and San Javier got his annual constitutional through the streets.

Here´s a picture of Landon at the Tropic. Note the sundial in the background says that the sun is about as far south as it will get this year.

Majestic Views and Fishing School

2007-12-17T17:13:00.000-06:00

Going from Chilicito to San Juan, Ruta 40 provides some excellent scenery

Saw this in Mendoza, had to take a picture for evidence

The Inca Bridge, on the way to Chile

Sometimes the views are just too much to describe

"From a phone booth in Cheyenne,......." (name that tune, and click to enlarge)

The lake south of Paredites, on Ruta 40

Because the road was detoured for construction at the 3000 km marker, which, by the way, is the distance left to Tierra del Fuego.

When I stopped for gas in El Sosneado, I met a group on their way home to Mendoza, after a 4 day ride to Neuquen. All on BMW's

While I was taking a break at the El Sosneado station, Facundo came up and asked if I liked to fish. After a small discussion, he produced his fishing pole and some day old bread. In about 10 minutes, my trout fishing lesson was over, and I had an eight inch trout on the end of the line, from the stream behind the store. I packed $250 worth of fly fishing gear 10,000 miles to do what it took a kid with $5 worth of stuff 10 minutes to do. Kind of humbling....., hell, it was very humbling.

Sorry I didn't get a picture of the fish, I was too excited.

On Down Ruta 40

2007-12-12T19:31:00.000-06:00

We stopped in a small town called Cachi, kind of a small tourist town up in the mountains. Sean helped contribute to the local delinquency rate.

Hey, they're just fireworks. It could be worse, they could be cigarettes.

¨To hell with the brake pedal, I just need to reach the throttle.¨

Yes, that actually is a stretch of Ruta 40, north of Cafayate.

There are lots of wineries, irrigated from the mountians, in a dry valley.

I get the feeling some enjoy the local product quite a bit.

Andean Argentina

2007-12-09T18:01:00.000-06:00

Isn't WIFI great, it's given me a chance to catch up in the hotel lobby. Here are a few pics from Northern Argentina. Or Ruta 9, north of JuJuy

The Skypilot taking on Ruta 40

Look close, it really is one road.

Salta

2007-12-09T17:54:00.000-06:00

We took the cable car ride up the overlook in Salta The waterfalls(man made) at the overlook

"Top o' the World"

Cathederal at night

San Martin, the great liberator of Argentina

Buenos Dias, Argentina

2007-12-09T17:27:00.000-06:00

Quick, somebody cue up Marty Robbins singing "Buenos dias , Argentina", yes, it really is a song. We crosssed the border at Yacuiba on the eastern side of the Andes. The border was busy with cart traffic, because it is easier and cheaper than trying to get a truck through here. It was like an giant ant farm display. The workers from Argentina would just dump their load in the street and the Bolivian side would load in on their carts and disappear into a side street.
A while after crossing the border, the farm fields streched out to the horizon. Large equipment was everywhere. Quite a change from the tiny hillside fields of the Andes. The MasseyFerguson dealer at Embarcacion.

We stopped at a service station/cafeteria and talked to a guy who worked on a local farm. They had 17,000 hectares, but only 5,000 were being farmed. That's give or take 15,000 acres, all no-till.

A Regional Custom

2007-12-09T13:18:00.000-06:00

When we started to leave Concepcion, we asked if there really was a route back that was all asphalt. Everyone said "Yes, but there is this bridge......" . It turns out, to cross the river the only avaiable bridge was the railroad bridge. We were advised to wait and go at the end of the line, and if it was dry, everything would be fine. When we got to Pailon, where the bridge was, at least we were blessed with dry weather. Waiting patiently, we thought we were last, but cars kept coming. Now picture crossing a railroad bridge with random length 3x12's running lengthwise, for 1400 meters, add in slow traffic in front of you, while you ride the clutch, trying to maintain momentum. You can't go fast enough to maintain your balance, but every time you start to put your foot down, it clips a nail or bolt holding the boards down. Add in a car or truck in your rearview, it's quite the stress generator.
Lou coming off the bridge in one piece.

A second bridge in Villa Monte, near the Argentine border

The Missiones

2007-12-05T19:48:00.000-06:00

We surived the ferry and the driving rain and the pavement ended about 40k past Concepcion, so we found the Hotel Etayo, and called it a day. The owners took us in as family and we truly felt at home. They even gave us a guided tour of the city in their four-wheel drive truck and took us to church services on Sunday evening. The restored Jesuit Mission in Concepcion

A closer look at the guy on the ladder

Evidence that the rainy season has started

Hotel Etayo

How to relax at Hotel Etayo
The bell tower at the Concepcion Mission, made entirely of wood.

The restored Jesuit Mission in San Xavier. We arrived in the rain, on Tuesday morning while they were celebrating their Feast day. It was the day after the celebration of the city's anniversary party. We got there just in time to watch the ushers throw a drunk parishoner out of the sanctuary.

Inside the sanctuary of the San Xavier Mission

All they had to say was "No,....."

2007-12-03T19:03:00.000-06:00

But when we would ask if this was the way to Los Troncos or Concepcion they would all point in the direction we were headed and say "yes, just go straight" Soon , the road got to be just a dirt trail, but it also got to be that we didn´t even have to ask. Whenever we made a wrong turn, someone would always give us a sign to turn around or point in the general direction we needed to be headed.

Then, we came to a ferry crossing on the Rio Grande that wasn´t the most modern thing.

After a little bargaining on the price, we settled on the environmentally friendly company. Read- no motor, human power.

A little later, no worse for wear.

Safe and sound,.....and dry.

We headed off in search of Concepcion. Later we figured out that if we had gone south about 50k and then back north 50k, we could have been on asphalt the whole way. But then we would have missed all the fun

Welcome to the Jungle

2007-12-01T19:16:00.000-06:00

Cochabamba from the hotel window

Entering the Amazon side of the Andes

So, we visited Machu Pichu, the ruins at Ollantytambo and Pisaq, and visited with Shawn´s parents in Aguas Calientes and Cusco. It was really fun, and Machu Pichu is truly a destination for people from all over the world. We met people from France and Brazil and a whole bunch of other countries, sort of an international cross roads. We left Cusco and ended up on Lake Titicaca in the town of Puno, Peru. Kind of a disappointment after the beauty of Cusco, but I guess every dog has it´s day. From there we crossed the border into Bolivia and went to another town on the lake, (ok, Ill write it again, Titicaca) Copacabana. This place was the Bohemian hideout for a bunch young folks livin´on the cheap, rooms for 3 bucks a head and dinner for arond 2 or 3 bucks. The next day we took a somewhat interesting ferry across the lake to the road to La Paz and found another hippie hideout in downtown, it kinda looked like a commune, but it was a cheap place to stay where we could get Shawn to the airport easily the next day. After some starting issues the next morning (even the motorcycle has trouble waking up at 10,000 ft) we traveled to Cochabamba over the Bolivian altiplano through sleet and 38 degree temperatures. More engine trouble occupied the evening , so we ended up working on my carburator instead of seeing the town. Today we intended on going to Santa Cruz, but no one told the map company that Bolivia has moved the major route east out of the mountains into the Amazon basin and the road ends up in Montero, 35 miles north of Santa Cruz. We got to spend the afternoon here taking apart Lou´s starter and finding out why it wasn´t working. It was just a loose piece and it worked fine after we put it back together. We´re planning on visiting some Jesuit missions, but the rains may change our plans, so stay tuned. Oh yeah, the day before Shawn left, my camera said card full, so I sent it home with him, and we´ll have to get the pic´s from Lou, sorry.

Machu Picchu

2007-11-26T16:30:00.001-06:00

The traditional sunrise shot.

Yes, I did take this wonderful picture! ¿Como se llama?

Shawn and me at the top of the mountain at Machu Picchu

Going down was more unnerving than going up.

Shawn´s parents happened to be in town and we had dinner with them. (remember Sean Tucker is missing because he was on the "young man´s" bike trip.

In and around Cuzco

2007-11-26T16:23:00.000-06:00

A warm cup of coca tea. Against the law in many countries.

Salesperson at the plaza.

Lou, Shawn and Landon at the Inca ruins above the city. Sean Tucker is missing because he went on a "young man´s" bike trip up to Machu Picchu.

Shawn receiving energy from the 12 angle Inca stone.

A little leaguer at the convent.

The Road to Cuzco

2007-11-26T13:51:00.000-06:00

Lou had the fish dish.

Landon and Sean tried the cuy (Guinea Pig is a favorite here)

A mall in Lima. We traveled how far to get here?

Shawn Norris, astronaut in the Peruvian desert

The Nazca lines.

We spent several days in Lima, which is really a much more beautiful city than the guidebooks would lead one to believe. A wonderful couple hosted us in their home, and there was time to catch up on email, wash clothes, change oil in the bikes and take in some of the sites. During the morning of the last day in Lima I went to the airport to pick up my friend Shawn Norris who came in from Kansas City. He will ride along with us for 10 days. Then we all drove south along the desert coast to Nazca.

The next morning was Thanksgiving Day at home, and we experienced temperatures in the 80s. As we drove up into the high sierra, the scenery was spectacular. However the clouds moved in and the temperatures dropped until we were plowing through freezing rain and snow in the middle of nowhere. We spent a couple of miserable hours on top until we dropped down from the high country along a river to Chalhuanca, a little town that advertised hot water above the front door. If it would have cost $100 we would have been thankful, but it was only $8 a night. The next day we took the remainder of the road to Cuzco. It was comparatively tame.

Trujillo to Huaraz

2007-11-25T16:20:00.000-06:00

We stopped in the town of Pariocoto for the night before we took on the trail to Huaraz. Two Catholic Priests from this town were killed by the Shining Path in the 1970's. Their death helped reduce the power of the Shining Path in this area, and they are entomed in the Church here.

I can't delete this

The road to Huaraz

The trip to Huaraz rewarded us with a beautiful view of the snow capped mountains.

When we left Tujillo, we stopped at the Huaca de la Luna, a pyramid that had been covered by a sand dune until it was discoveredi in the 1990´s.

The "road" to Huaraz included several surprises along the was.

Into Peru

2007-11-15T22:22:00.000-06:00

As you can see, northern Peru is a whole lotta sand and not much else.

Crossing an intersection in downtown Trujillo, Peru. It's basically a live version of the old "Frogger" video game,...... don't blink.

Just like home, a cement factory in Pacasmayo, Peru.

Hepco & Becker 1, BMW 0

Some Pictures From Ecuador

2007-11-15T22:02:00.000-06:00

While we were in Quito, we toured the Old Town and the Basilica del Voto Nacional, the tallest church in Ecuador.

This is a view from the clock towers, look towards the steeple.

The view from the steeple, looking baback towards the clock towers. (Yes, you can go higher, but weak knees and a strong pucker factor stopped yours truly.)

An Inca woman waiting for a ride on the road south from Rio Bamba to Loja

The drier side of the Ecuadorian Andes heading to the Peruvian border at Macara.

Some questions from Ecuador

2007-11-12T19:11:00.001-06:00

If a dollar is worth 10.5 pesos and 1 gallon is equal to 4.5461 litres, how much is gas in Ecuador? (the answer is at the bottom of the blog.)

How far away from a volcano do you have to be if it blows up?

You be the judge, does it flush counter-clockwise down here?

We crossed the equator several days ago and spent a couple of wonderful days in the capital city. The cathedral and the nation's main museum were highlights. No one should complain about the prices of things here. The only critical thing I would say is that they could use a few more street and road signs. This morning we moved south from Quito to Riobamba.

It's hard to imagine that as long as we have been on the road, we are only a bit more than one-third the way south from Austin, Texas (30 degrees north) to Tierra del Fuego (55 degrees south, comparable to Juneau, Alaska at about 55 degrees north.) We look forward to getting into Peru in the next day or two and traveling along the Pacific coast to Lima.

Answer:

Alright, it was a trick question. A gallon of regular (Extra) costs $1.48. That's right. Ecuador uses the dollar as it's official currency and uses gallons instead of litres. It means what it says: A gallon of premium costs $2.16 down here. What's not to like about Ecuador!

Natural wonders of Ecuador

2007-11-09T16:18:00.000-06:00

A woman in the market

Boys on the street

The path to a waterfall

Lunch two days in a row.

The cebiche we had for lunch today.

Some things I´ve learned so far

2007-11-09T14:29:00.000-06:00

In 1557, a traveler might have slept in this bed.

This traveler slept in this bed in 2007.

450 years of progress.

I liked this picture at the Colonial Museum in Bogota

Theology of the Holy Trinity in oil colors (same museum)

One reason Popayan, Colombia is a popular place to visit.

Things I´ve learned recently.

1. Colombians impress me as an exuberant bunch. The motorcycle was not accustomed to so much attention. At every stop light on our trip south scores of local motorcycles would gather around, and their riders would immediately start talking and asking questions. When we parked the bikes, people would gather around to visit. Along the roads of Colombia, the bikes ignited smiles and waves (and probably imaginations). It was fun.

2. The folks here in the mountains of Ecuador are very friendly, but they seem quieter, even shy. I´m wondering if it has to do with climate. I´m still wondering about this question--does a cold climate bring out the shy in a culture and a warm climate bring out the expressive?

3. Paying someone to help you get through a border will probably cost you more than money. Going through immigration and customs can be as much a cultural experience as going through a museum or church. Each border post has it´s own personality and deserves some time, but not too much. In my observation, when you hire a tramitador it takes longer than when you do it yourself.

4. I´d say the same thing about using an agent to ship a bike. Unless you have a lot of money and time, deal directly with the airline and ship it direct to yourself, not an agent. Then leave the same day your bike does. You may be able to go right to the cargo terminal and pick it up.

5. The U.S. State Department web site may be the least helpful place to go for security information regarding countries of the world. The overkill in warnings for practically every country on earth renders the site almost useless. If it covered the USA it would issue a dramatic warning about high risk travel on I35 between Waco and Oklahoma City because of a history of violence in those places. There are places of risk for travelers in the world. You´ll probably need to go elsewhere than the State Department to find out where they really are.

6. It´s a wonderful thing to be an outsider and meet so many folks who by nature offer hospitality.

Happy Birthday, Tyler

2007-11-08T16:28:00.000-06:00

Since I don't know when my next stop is, I'd like to wish my nephew happy birthday! Lake just northwest of Otavalo

Slight erosion problem

Peguche Falls near Otavalo

Lou riding away from Peguche Falls

Sometimes the landslides don't get cleaned up right away

More Pics

2007-11-08T16:09:00.000-06:00

These students were with their teacher at the border of Colombia and Ecuador, hoping to find some English speaking travelers passing through. They were from Ipiales, Colombia, and hit paydirt with us.

Just hangin' out in Otavalo

Yes, this is the municipal cockfighting ring in Otavalo. For those of you unfamiliar with it, it's kind of a UFC for roosters.

Some big ole doors

Plaza in Otavalo

Some pics from our travels

2007-11-08T15:54:00.000-06:00

"For those about to rock"

Popayan at night

Pre Colombian works in the hotel lobby

How would you get it home?

Colombian Highway

Equador

2007-11-06T16:01:00.000-06:00

We have arrived in Otavalo, Equador.

Southern Colombia offered days of wonderful rides and people. Heavy cloud cover has hampered internet service here, and two electrical outages have made it difficult to post a blog. I´ll post more text and pictures as soon as possible.

Bogota

2007-11-04T13:24:00.000-06:00

Bogota had it´s delays and challenges, but they were manageable. While working on the problems (Sean´s blog has a detailed description), we had the privilege of meeting some wonderful people and exchanging some good stories and jokes. We had very little free time. Bogota´s main attraction for me, the Gold Museum, was closed for remodeling. The central plaza and cathedral were blocked off for an official ceremony. And we didn´t get to the salt mine and church. But we were able to take come walks in the old city, have some great conversations, and solve the problems. I found the time in the city to be very positive, and we´re hoping to get back to Bogota when we finish our ride in South America.

We did indeed free our bikes from their cages on Thursday. Processing them through customs took all morning. Getting them out of the airline cargo bay took all afternoon. The entire front of the cargo terminal was a loading dock, with a couple narrow, railed stairs for customers and workers--too narrow and steep for the bikes. The problem was how to get the bikes down the drop.

Everything was considered from an I-beam ramp (too high, narrow, and steep) to driving them around the back of the terminal and out the service entrance (the obvious solution, but it wasn´t acceptable to the airport security). By mid-afternoon 30 people were working on the problem. Finally someone mentioned that they had a fork lift in the parking lot. With a large aluminum palate and a skilled driver, each bike in turn was smoothly lowered to ground level. And we drove off jubilantly into a deluge that was just hitting the city. It was a baptismal experience of the highest order.

Chalecos, they're mandatory.

2007-11-04T13:06:00.000-06:00

Colombian Highway
Some days it's just too much
Popayan

So wehave been in Colombia nearly a week and the only problems have been with the guerillas of the urban tribe, you know the kind with the suit and tie that think you haven´t done your homework. So we left Bogota in the rain and only two or three hours of daylight to ride and we ended up inFusagasuga, a town well known in these parts for growing the national flower of Colombia, the Orchid. The hillsides were covered with greenhouses full of colorful flowers. The Hotel there was really cheap, but nearly brand new. $US17 a night for 3 people. After we left there we headed down into avalley and then up into the mountains to cross the pass near Armenia at close to 11,000 feet and 55 degrees f. We finished the day about 15 miles east of Cali in the town of Palmira. About 20 miles outside of Palmira we started to see acre upon acre of the plants they make fine white powder for the American consumer from, you know it as sugar, here it's call azucar. Every miles there were warnings about the crossing of the "cane train", opwards of 6 massive, self dumping trailers hooked together and being pulled by large trucks or tractors. After a bug infested night in Hotel El Dorado we moved south to Popayan, a touristy colonial town at about 6,000 ft . If you would have told me the climate would be this pleasant this close to the border I wouldn't have believed you. The roads have had military checkpoints every 20 miles or less, so it seems things are pretty calm at this moment.The roads and sceneryhave been absolutely breathtaking, especially when you comearound a mountain curve looking at a truck in his right lane,a bus in his passing lane, and another car passing them in your lane . Maybe that's why some folks call it Locombia?

At last, South America

2007-10-31T14:23:00.000-05:00

On Monday morning, as planned, we drove to the cargo area of the Panama City airport, bid our bikes goodbye, transferred to the passenger terminal, and flew to Bogota. Not as planned, our bikes failed to travel Monday. We have received word that they arrived this morning, and are hoping to go to the airport tomorrow morning to get them. It´s been a real runaround, largely because we chose to use an agency to "help" us with shipping the bikes. But it looks like we´ve got things worked out today. It really seems weird to not have the bike, and the experience of getting it out of customs and back on the road cannot come too soon. We´ll post some pictures and details later.

2007-10-28T11:11:00.000-05:00

Lou and his bike in Granada, Nicaragua

Flora and Fauna in Panama

Landon is the one who has been making the posts lately in this blog. I´ve thought about it a lot, and have even had several opportunities, but I didn´t know what to write. In almost every way the past few days been routine: riding, asking for directions, eating, packing, unpacking, sleeping, reading, washing clothes, and drinking a refreshing beverage. I haven´t come up with much that seemed remotely interesting to folks back home. In most ways, we could be home.

In comparing the backpacking trip through Central America in 1976 and this one, I´m surprised at how much things seemed to have changed, or maybe I´ve changed. I´m wondering if everywhere is starting to look more like everywhere else. You imagine exotic places you want to see and people you want to meet. Maybe you even remember them from former visits. Then, when you arrive, they seem so common and familiar. The thought is comforting and sad at the same time.

If all goes as planned, tomorrow we and our bikes will be in South America. Mid-day the motorcycles should be on one airplane and we on another, hoping to meet again in Bogota. Then begins the adventure south through and along the Andes. I´m thinking there might be plenty to write about again.

Friday, Oct 26

2007-10-27T20:46:00.000-05:00

Reg from the UK on hi R1200GSA

Tim from the UK taking a break from sitting down The guys in the shop at MPH where I got my tire.

The last couple of days have been rather routine, get up, load up, ride to a point agreed upon earlier and stop for a hotel and dinner. Today we arrived in Panama City entering the city on the Bridge of the Americas, over the Panama Canal. Quite impressive. Last night we stayed at Hotel la Hacienda in Santiago, Panama. It was kind of like a Days Inn with a Mexican theme.
We came into Panama City on a toll road and needed to exit just before the toll booth. The toll attendant was kind enough to tell us just to roll back out of the toll booth and move over to the proper lane. After we forced a few cars out of the way, we found our way to the exit and down to the next toll booth. Since I was in front I pulled up to the booth and told them I would be paying for the five motorcycles. She responded in Spanish, saying something about police and motorcycle, and I thought she thought we were police. Just then, I glanced over my shoulder and there was a Panamanian motorcycle cop right in the middle of our “pack”. I quickly paid the toll for the group and pulled through the gate and over to the shoulder to wait for the others. The officer followed me to the shoulder, and I figured we were in for some kind of trouble for our little detour but he instantly started asking questions about where we were from and where we were headed and my opinions of Panama. Just as he started to pull away, I asked him how far it would be to next turn, he responded by asking where in town we were going. I told him the name of the hotel and out of the blue we ended up getting a police escort to a hotel we had found earlier. Unfortunately, the hotel had no vacancies, so we decided to head for the BMW dealer to see about a tire for my bike. They didn’t have my size but told me of a motorcycle accessory shop down the street that could fix me up. I went there with Tim while the others went to look for a hotel that was suggested by a customer at the BMW store. The moto shop had a tire, but didn’t offer mounting or balancing. I asked if I could change it at the rear of the store and they agreed. As we worked on the tire, Tim kind of took control, and after 20 minutes or so it was ready to go. We cleaned up and headed for the hotel in rush hour traffic. We are staying at the Hotel Montreal Panama near downtown Panama City. Tomorrow we will talk to a freight company about options on shipping to Colombia.

Coasting in Costa Rica

2007-10-23T21:51:00.000-05:00

The detour from the PanAmerican Highway Countryside
Tourists blocking traffic
The Brits coming through the palm plantation
Arrival at Brunka Lodge

After a weekend off the bikes we traveled to the BMW dealer in San Jose to pick up some spare parts and get Sean's tire fixed. Lou discussed his battery troubles with the service manager and decided to return first thing Tuesday morning and start with a fresh battery. The dealer was kind enough to find us a cheap hotel for the night near the dealership, so we ended the day after a whopping 6.5 miles.

Tuesday we left the dealership with one of the managers leading us to the city limits. We headed off after he kindly paid our toll and went back to the store. Those guys surely went above and beyond! As we started to climb into the mountains on the Pan American Highway we were told that a section of the road no longer existed and it would be 3 or 4 days until it would reopen. Just then, another officer drove up and told the other he would take us to a detour we could take and continue on. What a ride! The 45 minute detour had exhilarating vistas, white knuckle turns, rock strewn incline and impatient Costa Rican drivers thrown in for good measure. After we got back to the PanAm we made our way to the top of the "Mountain of Death" (Costa Rica's name, not ours) to 48 degree(f) temps and rain. As we approached the Pacific, the temperatures went up to the 90's and the clouds parted. We took a little side road looking for a hotel, wound up driving through a palm plantation and banana farm and ended up in the Brunka Lodge in Palmar Norte for the night. Tomorrow we head for Panama.

Proper Tools

2007-10-21T16:07:00.001-05:00

UOn Saturday we waited for the rain to lighten up in Liberia before we started loading up the bikes for the trip to San Jose. Earlier, we had gone to an ATM for gas money and spoke with a security guard about the rain. He told us there was a tropical depression in the Pacific and the area was forecast for another three days of rain. Just as we pulled into the gas station another strong downpour started, but we took our time getting fuel and it lightened up as we left. There were showers off and on all the way towards San Jose, and just when we getting close to town, the main highway was closed, forcing a detour towards Puntarenas and near the Pacific Ocean. When we started into San Jose it looked like we would make it to the hotel dry, but mother nature had another idea. The last 3 or 4 miles were in a really strong rain, and just after we exited, Sean started pointing toward his front tire. I thought he meant he was having brake issues, but soon noticed he had a flat. All five of us pulled over on what little there was of a shoulder and started to work like an Indy pit crew in the rain. As we worked people would roll by, staring, taking pictures and one even asking if we were with the Discovery channel. When we were done, we headed to the Best Western and pulled under the canopy to check in. We got quite a few interesting looks, but I guess paying customers can look however they want. We decided to splurge and spend 2 nights here, doing laundry, drying out and visiting the BMW dealer on Monday. It is somewhat of a slice of the US here, with all the English speaking tourists around and even a Denny’s next door. Not quite the “adventure” I had in mind.
Reminds me a little of Mikey's
Our battery finding friends in Santa Rosa de Copan, Honduras
In Costa Rica?
Waiting it out at the gas station
Up close on the Pacific Ocean

San Jose, Costa Rica

2007-10-21T15:41:00.000-05:00

There is a warning on the bottle of our daily malaria medication about taking it and exposure to direct sunlight. Well we haven't had any problems with that for a while. We got a little direct sunlight this morning, but it's raining again and we are safe from any possible side effects.

Do you know the way to San Jose? We thought we did when we took off from Liberia yesterday, but all the rain had washed out the Pan American Highway. The alternate route took us down to the Pacific where we saw some big waves. The road was narrow, punctuated with one lane bridges and hairpin curves. The traffic was impressive. The scenery must have been beautiful, but we were riding in the clouds most of the way over the mountains, so we missed it.

We're in San Jose, Costa Rica, and staying in a nice hotel with a swimming pool and hot tub. It's like being at a conference in Minneapolis. We arrived in the city during a rainstorm. Sean had a flat on the front tire while we were exiting the freeway. We all stopped in a bunch at the end of the busy entrance ramp to another limited access road. Landon went into response mode, and within 10 minutes the puncture had a temporary fix, the tire was inflated, and we were off like a pack of dogs. It was a triumph.

There are five of us now including two guys from the UK. Tomorrow we'll go to the BMW dealer here to pick up a few parts and get a little advice. Then we're off toward the border with Panama.

We're kinda anxious to get to South America, so there hasn't been a lot of smelling of roses along the way. I look forward to shifting gears once we are there. I don't have much else to add to Landon's entry. Sean's blog (listed at the top of ours) will also give details of the trip. I'm sorry that we can't post pictures from this internet station. We'll do that in the next couple of days.

Moving Through the Funnel

2007-10-19T22:30:00.000-05:00

Nachos and Iced Tea, Honduran Style

Just a small update from Liberia, Cost a Rica. After we left San Marcos de Ocotopeque, we headed toward Danli, near the border to Nicaragua. While we dined in the hotel Granada, where we were staying, we met Tim from the UK. Most travelers on the PanAm route must come through here, so it becomes somewhat of a funnel. We agreed to move on as a group of four.
We crossed into Nicaragua the next morning , it went fairly smooth and we headed for the town of Granada. After a little encounter with the National Police and a local bullfighter wannabe (see Sean’s Blog, it makes me look good ) we settled on a swank hotel downtown.
Today, Oct 19, we headed for the Costa Rican border in the rain. Along the way we picked up another rider from the UK, Reg, who is on a little faster pace than us, but crossed the border with us. The Nicaraguan and Costa Rican officials and the “tramitadores” or helpers tried to totally ruin our day, but we wouldn’t let them. After 3 ½ hours we finished our processing and headed on to Liberia in the pouring rain. We are staying in the Hotel Boyeros and ordered in Papa Johns pizza and cold beer while we listen to the heavy rain continue. Aaaahhh, life is good.

Honduras

2007-10-16T15:33:00.000-05:00

Roasting marshmallows over a camp stove (don´t worry mom, it´s unleaded gas)

The highway near San Marcos, the one in Honduras

Let me see, is the hot on the left or the right?

For the past days we have had the sublime pleasure of staying with Liz, a friend of Sean, who lives in San Marcos, a little town in Honduras. She and her wonderful friends have made these days so great. The food and conversations and roof and shower define hospitality. When you read some of what Sean and Landon have written about our time here, you will know why we plan to come back when we return through Central America. Tomorrow we resume traveling. I will miss this place.

On a trip like this, not everything goes as planned. Some of the possibilities can even wake you up in the middle of the night. Larry, a friend who likes to travel ´close to the earth´, put it well when he said that people sign up for the travel tours because they don´t want any surprises. The problem is that they eliminate most of the good surprises as well as the bad. Well, here is an example of the kind of surprise that keeps the group travel industry in business.

We were just coming out of the mountains, minding our own business, driving down the first straight patch of highway at about 45 miles per hour (which is actually a daunting speed after spending five hours doing hairpin curves) . All of the sudden I was startled by what sounded like a mower shredding a tree stump on the left. I applied the brakes and looked in the mirror. There was my left saddle bag, filled with cooking and camping gear, sliding face down on the pavement, like it was trying to pass me on the road. I felt like a parent, exasperated at such an act of disobedience but grateful that we were not being met by an oncoming lumber truck. We came to a stop, side by side, both a little worse for the wear. I´ve learned to be more careful when attaching the luggage, and I use a bungee cord now.

Perhaps the least appreciated of the senses is smell. I´ve been asked ¨If you had to give up one of your senses would it be seeing or hearing?¨ I´ve never been asked ¨Which would you rather loose, your ability to see or to smell.¨ But I´m guessing that fragrances more important than we realize, maybe because we are largely unaware of them. It´s almost like an ambush. Some experts say that falling in love has to do more with fragrance than appearance.

One of the reasons I still ride on two wheels, even after a serious accident, is because it lets you get in on the smells. We were riding through a mountain village a few days ago and passed a truck loaded with freshly cut lumber. The aroma was transporting. It carried me away to lumber yards and new houses, cedar chests, childhood toys and furniture stores. I would have missed that if I would have been riding around in a bus. I would have passed the gardenias and ears of corn simmering in uncovered pots without even noticing. I would never have known that grilled chicken was being served in the house on the corner. I´ve realized that nothing says ¨Come on in¨ better than passing a hotel smelling of PineSol. And nothing says ¨We´re getting ready to go somewhere¨ like the vapors of a choked motor.

All these are missed if the AC is cranked up and you´re looking through glass. And what the nose picks up doesn´t have to be appealing. If your on a bike even the dead horse on the side of the road still has the power to give you something. The smell has what it takes to get through with the reminder that life is short and, except for the tender mercy of God, you really can´t count on too many things in this life. In the heavenly city, with its streets of gold, I'm hoping we don´t have to take a cab to get where we need to go. We would miss the fragrance of the charcoal fires in the kitchens, the new wine uncorked for breathing, the Jasmine hanging from the pearly gates, the incense and freshly laundered garments being pressed for the celebration.

Anyway, that´s why I still ride a bike.

Enough of that for now.

The People You Meet

2007-10-16T11:14:00.000-05:00

The highway in Honduras. note the missing guardrail and pavement

Sean and Lou bringing up the rear. In line, uphill, 10-15 mph.

Lou says ¨¡Yo estoy feliz!¨

A trip like this would be fast and easy if all you had to do was fill gas and find hotel rooms, but some days aren´t that easy.

When we arrived in San Christbal de las Casas we must have ridden through a puddle of paint, because the left leg of my fancy leather pants and my left boot were covered in purple paint. After dinner I walked by a shoe repair shop and asked if he could help me out. I ended up spending nearly an hour talking to Jorge Santiz Gomez , the owner of the Reparacion de Calzado at Nabarro No 7. It was interesting how we both tried to express our opinions, even though we didn't have a common language. I left with a little better understanding of Mexican culture and a really clean pair of boots.

When Lou's R100R started needing to be push started, I was pretty sure there wasn't too much to worry about. A short call on skype to Mikey at Martindale Motorcycle and a quick change of the regulator, and we were back in business........ until we found part two. Lou's battery had jumped out of the battery box and had been rubbing against the back tire for probably 500 miles, wearing a nice tire shaped hole in the battery case. We spent most of Monday morning walking the streets of tiny San Marcos de Ocotopeque and inquiring at more than seven businesses, only to find our best bet was a bus ride to nearby Santa Rosa de Copan. Fortunately, a local Peace Corp volunteer ,Connie, had the morning off and graciously guided us around during the morning. In the afternoon we boarded a "chicken bus" for S R. We went to a recommended auto parts store, who didn't have one, but loaded the four of us (this time Sean's friend Liz was guiding) in his SUV and drove us all over town until we found a suitable replacement. Funny how the place we ended up at reminded me of Mikey's. After buying the battery, the parts house owner even had someone drive us back to the other side of town so we could get some groceries. Everyone says he must have been from El Salvador. Oh well, he was very kind to us.

Some days the kindness of strangers is really amazing.

2007-10-13T20:12:00.000-05:00

Sunrise over Lake Atitlan

Leaving the Hotel Laura

Church in Chiquimula

"Our best shot"

It started to rain in San Cristobal, and we weighed the advantaged and disadvantages of waiting out the weather or moving on. When we heard that the rain could last for ten days, we saddled up our rides and moved on. It was wet all the way to La Mesilla, on the Guatemala border. After finishing our paperwork, we decided to stay at the locally recommended Hotel Laura, owned by an Mexican who had lived in San Diego for 18 year and drove long haul trucks across the US. We enjoyed the place and the food. The hot tub was the temperature of the rain, so we decided to pass on it.

The next day it continued to rain all the way to Lake Atitlan. We and our gear got soaked. Landon´s map was not up to par, so ended up in a small fishing village on a cow path of a short cut that the locals said was passable. We gave it our best shot, but ended up taking a sidewalk back into town and backtracked to the main road on Lou´s map. We arrived at Santiago Atitlan at dark, negotiated a hotel room (actually three hotel rooms) and ate supper on the plaza. It seemed a somber little town, especially in the rain, but the zocolo was alive, and we enjoyed our meal a lot.

This morning it was clear, for the first time in days. We dropped out of the mountains to the CA2 highway along the coast. Then we went through Guatemala City with its traffic and smog. It took almost two hours for us to make an escape on the CA9 to the north and east towards Chiquimula. We like this town. It seems like the whole town was aware of our presence within a few minutes of our arrival. We have a hotel room with a balcony on the square and a fresh pineapple in the bag. We´re so glad to be here and to be dry.

Hasta luego.

2007-10-11T07:57:00.000-05:00

With a few exceptions the pavement has been good since we left Oaxaca. The way down to the coast was lined with agava fields. They spread out with the most wonderful color, my favorite, teal. (I painted my house that color, and my brother joked that I had just lowered the property values of the entire neighborhood). We stopped at a place where they produced mezcal and picked up a bottle for ourselves. We never actually saw the Pacific, but the humidity assured us that it was close.

As Landon reported, the ride to San Cristobal was spectacular. We got some refreshing light showers, then a drenching in Tuxtla Gutierrez. From then on it was a ride up into the clouds. Wonderful. Fresh. Last night we stayed in a grand old colonial hotel on the square, a bit pricy, but it evokes another time, and the cost includes parking for the bikes and breakfast. There's gentle rain now. It'll probably continue all day. I look forward to getting into Guatemala.

October 10 2007

2007-10-10T20:55:00.000-05:00

Today we awoke to a balmy morning in Tehuantepec near the Pacific coast. We left the 335 foot elevation and continued southeast along the coast. The terrain was reminiscent of Nueces county as you approach Corpus Christi. After a couple of hours we turned back inland and started up into the mountains, on our way toward our goal for the day, San Cristobal de Las Casas. Someone told me before this journey "I hope you find what you are looking for",to which I replied "I'm not looking for anything". After a day like today, I realize there actually are things worth going to look for. To ride from 300ft and 92 degrees and rise to over 6000ft into the clouds and feel the temperature drop to 60 degrees, all the while being mezmerized by corn growing on near vertical hillsides..........and then riding into the clouds and the visibility dropping to less than 100 yards.......totally indescribable. I'm trying to be safe, and limit my photos from the bike , so you'll have to use your imagination, and settle for one of last nights dinner.

2007-10-09T08:40:00.000-05:00

We left Cuernavaca yesterday and made our way through the mountains on roads that were 'sinuoso' to say the least. The scenery was spectacular. These roads are made for motorcycles and people who would dream of flying. We found the huge church above in the middle of the countryside an hour or so north of the incredible city of Oaxaca in southern Mexico. After locating a place for our bikes and us to spend the night, we went to the zocolo and found a table on the plaza. There we enjoyed watching people, listing to local music, and drinking a couple beers. Landon had beef tips and Sean and I had chicken with Oaxacan mole. Wonderful. Landon managed to find a wireless connection on his mini laptop and call home on Skype for 2 cents a minute.

Today we plan to visit Monte Alban and Mitla, both ruins in this area, and ride more or less halfway to San Cristobal de las Casas in Chiapas. We should hit the border with Guatamala by Wednesday evening or Thursday morning. All is well.

Monastic Days

2007-10-07T09:48:00.000-05:00

Today we took it easy and went into the village which has grown up around the monastery, which by the way is the Our Lady of The Angels Monastery. We went to a cyber-café and paid US$ .80 per hour to check e-mail and update the blogs. On our way back we bought a whole grilled chicken for US$ 4.00 and some other vegetables for dinner. We attended the Monks singing vespers and afterwards spoke to Father Conrad, who is in charge of the Monastery.

2007-10-06T13:39:00.000-05:00

After Pastor Paul and Marcia Collinson-Streng gave us a brief motorcycle blessing at noon on Wednesday, we left for Laredo, passing through Lockhart. Sean and I had a late lunch at the Dairy Queen while Landon did some official closure at a farm service agency. "Good fries." "Yep, they sure are. They make good hamburgers here too." "They do." I don´t remember us saying anything else important. Our brains were in neutral, getting ready for the ride.

Hit the first Motel 6 on the way into Laredo. On October 4 it took longer than we expected getting bike insurance and passing through the border, but we still managed to get to Matahuala and stay at The Oasis, a wonderfully tired wonder of the 50´s.

Yesterday was a long ride to Cuernavaca. We had to avoid Mexico City because foreign plates are not allowed on the roads on Friday. Dramatic mountain riding to Tula, got rained on, then had a beautiful drive through a forrest over the contintental divide and down into beautiful Cuernavaca. At dusk, we drove through the Monastery gates. It was a bit like coming home for me. We set up camp in the dark, had a modest supper and slept great. The temperature droped down into the low 50´s. We´re planning to stay here another day and take off for Central America on Monday.

This far the trip has been a transition from life in Texas to the experience of Latin America. The more south, the less familiar and more challenging. It´ll take a while for me to get into stride. We are having a great time.

2007-10-06T13:16:00.000-05:00

Today, Oct 6, we are in Cuernavaca, southwest of Mexico City. Yesterdays ride was everything from superslab toll roads to narrow city street to high mountain passes up to over 9000 ft in a forest that reminds me of the Black Forest in Germany, only larger. We´re learning to drive like the locals-not too sure of all the rules- little by little .

Projected Route

2007-09-22T17:34:00.000-05:00

It may be necessary to acquire additional maps along the way.

Projected Schedule

2007

October

Mexico, Guatemala, El Salvador, Honduras, Nicaragua, Costa Rica, Panama

November

Columbia--Cartagena, Medellin, Bogota, Cali

Equador

Peru--Lima, Cuzco, Machu Picchu, Lake Titicaca

December

Bolivia--La Paz, Santa Cruz, the Missions

Argentina--south along the Andes

Chile--a trip across the mountains to Santiago and back

2008

January

Argentina--Mendoza and south along the Andes to Bariloche

Chile--a trip across to the Pacific and back

Argentina--Los Glaciares, Tierra del Fuego, north to Bahia Blanca and La Pampa

February

Argentina--Buenos Aires

Uruguay

March

Brazil--Iguacu, Brasilia, Belem, up the Amazon to Manaus

April

Venezuela--Canaima, Caracas, Maracaibo

Colombia--the northern coast

Central America

May

Mexico

Texas